Using the Tie & Dye technique, which is also known as Shibori and Bound Resist, designs are made by folding or bunching cloth into intentional patterns. Using thread or other similar materials, the artisan binds or sews the gatherings of cloth in place tightly enough to prevent the dye from reaching the innermost part of the bound area. In this manner a bundle which can easily be handled is guided through the dye process to create predictable results.

Depending on the design, the bundle may be dyed only once to produce a design in one color and the white or other color of the background fabric. Some designs require many individual steps during the dye process. The artisan may selectively dip portions of the wrapped sections into different colored dyebaths. She may create visual ambiguity regarding the foreground background question as she carefully pours cans of different colored dyes over the bundled fabric as it lies on the ground. Most results are well and beautifully achieved, but sometimes a greater inspiration occurs and the dyes act together in a manner where some magical visual force is released and something sings when you look at the fabric.

Although men usually do the stitching of Shibori type designs when the sewing machine is involved, women usually tie by hand and dye all the fabric we sell here. Some fabric is produced by individuals working at home as craftspeople, some comes from individual artists who also dyes fabric as part of their artistic output and to augment the income stream. Finally, a good deal of the fabric comes from urban workshops with greater production capacity under the direction of a single person who directs and oversees the design and color combinations. The same design may be simultaneously reproduced in multiples in small or larger ateliers. For example, indigo cloth is often tied and dyed in threes.

Unfortunately, the major fabric manufacturing countries, which lie outside the African Continent, have appropriated the form of Tie & Dye and are reproducing it mechanically in enormous volume producing an imitation that lacks the vibrancy of the hand-made fabric. With enormous distribution systems and across the continent, these foreign manufacturers can and do undersell the fabrics created and dyed by hand in the local African community, thus slowly shutting down an opportunity for art to flourish and for people to be paid for creating beauty in this life. We hope that you will take your time looking over these selections

We’ll be selling this yardage in ˝ yard increments to help make the fabric available for quilters who may wish a smaller quantity of fabric as well as for shirt or dressmakers whose patterns may require 2 ˝ yards but not 3 yards. With the exception of TD1008, which is 30" wide and plain weave cotton, all other fabrics are 48" wide cotton damask weave.